Oddly, when The Substance won the Oscar tonight for Achievement in Makeup and Hairstyling, hair department head Frédérique Arguello didn’t get so much as a mention from those appearing to accept, including assistant hair stylist Marilyne Scarselli, special makeup effects designer Pierre Olivier Persin, and key makeup artist Stephanie Guillon.

It was unclear whether or not Arguello would be acknowledged, even if we knew she wouldn’t be up on stage. This is because, as we previously reported, Arguello was excluded from the Oscar nomination in spite of distributor Mubi’s best efforts to ensure her inclusion. She claimed that she was unfairly left out in favor of her assistant, Scarselli, though the reasons for that decision weren’t entirely clear.

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The controversy surrounding The Substance erupted in the days leading up to tonight’s ceremony, with Arguello sharing that after working on the film for five months, she was forced to leave the project due to health and family issues, with Scarselli taking over for the final three weeks. She’s insisted that by that time, most of the hairstyling work for the lauded body horror film had already been completed, leaving only continuity tasks.

Scarselli disputes this version of events, alleging that after a mishap with one of star Demi Moore’s wigs early in production, the actress no longer wanted to work with Arguello, leaving Scarselli to handle the actress’s hairstyling for the remainder of the shoot. While acknowledging that she was not the original designer, Scarselli asserts she rightfully earned her place at the Oscars, as she was responsible for doing Moore’s hair on set.

Previously, Arguello was recognized alongside her collaborators when The Substance won the makeup and hair prize at both the BAFTAs and The Critics Choice Awards. A spokesperson for Mubi told Deadline that it was the Academy, rather than the filmmakers, that made the decision to recognize Scarselli over Arguello.

Persin spoke for the group in tonight’s Oscars speech, thanking the Academy, director Coralie Fargeat “for the love of makeup and practical effects,” stars Moore and Margaret Qualley “for your patience in the makeup chair,” as well as Mubi, Working Title, and the “whole crew because it takes a village.”

The Substance is also nominated tonight for Best Picture, Original Screenplay, Actress, and Director. Watch the makeup and hair team’s remarks above.

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